Carpenter Street, Kuching, Sarawak
images by Veronica Ng
In
the old days, Carpenter Street was called "attap street" because of
the thatch houses on both sides. This was where carpenters set up their
workshop, earning the street its name.
A
facelift took place in 1884, by courtesy of a big fire that razed all the
wooden houses along the street. Charles Brooke, the then White Rajah of
Sarawak, issued a decree that henceforth the houses to be rebuilt with non
inflammable material. This necessitated the construction of the more permanent
brick shop houses along Carpenter Street, a few of them surviving till today.
During
those days, Carpenter Street was a lower working class neighborhood filled with
opium dens, gambling joints, brothels and other clandestine activities. These
were eventually cleaned up by the British.
The
whole area oozes charm and character. Off Leboh China there is a row of
perfectly preserved 19th century Chinese houses. Kuching's oldest streets
dating back to 1864 is a row of 2 storey shop houses. Today it is considered as
an 'antique arcade' because of its old-fashioned facade and for the variety of
antiques and handicrafts sold here. Souvenir-hunters can seek out an assortment
of traditional brassware, pottery, ceramics, tribal arts and many unique
souvenirs of Asia.
The
main entrance is at the eastern end of Carpenter Street opposite the Old
Courthouse compound. Otherwise, you can find the Chinatown in the Main Bazaar
area along Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman opposite the Kuching Waterfront and Leboh
Cina (Upper China Street).
Kuching
Chinatown is marked with a grandiose Chinese-inspired red archway that
certainly indicates the entry point of this popular shopping and eating place.
The refurbished old shophouses sport brightly painted walls and windows,
garbage-free streets. Kuching is a clean city.
Most
of the shops along Carpenter Street are selling mostly non-touristy stuff. You
will find bicycle shops, book stores, hardware stores, antique furniture stores
and quaint kopitiams, although there are a number of establishments that cater
to tourists, namely the Carpenter Guesthouse which seems like a decent
backpacking place, Century Café which provides a great cocktail bar, and the
exquisite looking Chinese restaurant.
There
are also many Chinese temples in the precinct. Along Carpenter Street alone,
there are two of them, with delicate stone carvings and pagodas. The most
popular temple has to be the Tua Pek Kong temple along Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman
which is the oldest Tokong Cina in the city.
The
temple is believed to be built back in 1843 although the city's official
records show its came into existence only in 1876. Opposite the old temple is
the Chinese History Museum which displays the history of the Chinese community
in Kuching and Sarawak in general, tracing their heritage from various
migration origins in mainland China. The museum is opened every day except on
Fridays.
The
temple is built back in 1843 opposite the old temple is the Chinese History
Museum (Muzium Sejarah Cina). The museum displays some history of the Chinese
community in Kuching and Sarawak in general, tracing their heritage from
various migration origins in mainland China.
Main
Bazaar along Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman is a must-visit in many travel itineraries.
Main Bazaar showcases almost similar characteristics of the old shop houses on
Carpenter Street and Leboh Cina, with fancy souvenir outlets as the norm rather than an
exception.
We went to the famous open air ( Lau Ya Keng) opposite the Temple where Pork satay and fishball beehoon are some of the specialties. Main
Bazaar, opposite the Waterfront, is the oldest street and the heart of old
Kuching. It has some superb examples of Chinese shop house architecture, many
of which have been occupied by the same family for generations. These families
still pursue traditional occupations such as tin-smiting, carpentry and petty
trading.
Labels: Carpenter Street, Kuching, Pork Satay
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